Hornstrandir
I was doing some research on Iceland. I wanted to go on the June solstice, and began to put a plan together. Somewhere in the depths of my looking, I stumbled across a picture entitled "Edge of World" and after that, I was forever changed. Although I didn't know it.
In the height of summer, my good friend Tom and I went North. Our destination was not one of convenience. We drove as far as one could drive from Reykjavik, hired a boat, and set out an adventure. We pulled into the fjord, the boat dropped a smaller boat into water, we left that smaller boat on the stone strand, and finally watched both boats leave us. Alone in wilderness. Our pick-up was scheduled for four days later. But between here and the point of extraction, were many miles.
Day 1: Into the wild
The night before, we were up late packing, and double checking our gear.
Ísafjörður at 1 AM. Before I went to sleep, I snapped this photo.
Our chariot.
We arrived with 4 others, but as Tom and I took our sweet time, they slipped over the horizon, leaving us alone.
On our climb up we were reunited with two of our boat-mates. We found them lost in the fog, and we joined forces. After a thrilling and scary climb over ice and snow, and utterly blinded on all sides by fog, we stumbled across the high pass between the fjords.
The dream team.
An arctic fox runs away as we walk by.
The Horn, bathing in the midnight sun, and waiting for me.
Day 2: This the way the world ends
Ducks file into the Arctic Ocean.
We came across a group of fox pups. This one tried to hide.
This one ran onto the sand, and then forgot we were there.
These three were curious and after followed us from afar.
Day 3: Sentinels in the fog
Day 4: Above the clouds
The end. For now...
Our adventure in Iceland continued, but the real adventure was over. For the rest of the journey we'd have roads and GPS and travelers' reviews. But in Hornstrandir, all we had was ourselves, a map, and a compass. Our simple instruments helped us through fog so thick, I wouldn't have recognized the house in which I grew up. They showed us the way over rock and ice and giant fjords. By the end of our adventure, the map was ripped and fraying from the damp, but it held together long enough for us to find our way.
When I saw those pictures of the cliffs at the edge of the world, I knew getting there wouldn't be easy. But when we returned, eating the most delicious fish dinner of my life, I realized something. Even after all the blisters and aching muscles, I realized I couldn't wait to do it again, and that I'd never felt so alive.