Get away from the crowds!
Seriously though, get away from the crowds. The Golden Circle was my least favorite part. This country is full of natural beauty, and I've found that the more I have to go out of my way to see something, the more spectacular it is when I see I finally get there. Maybe the waterfall isn't as big as Gullfoss, but the intimacy of finding it will make the whole experience significantly more memorable and special. There nothing magical about standing around with 100 of your closest friends from all over the world as people incessantly snap selfies all around you.
Iceland was hands down amazing, and I will definitely be returning, something that I can't say about many places. I'm a very big fan.
The Places
Why did the sheep cross the bridge? To get to the other side, duh!
The Wesfjords: Simply stunning. The main road does have several unpaved sections, but don't let that stop you. The fjords are magnificent, and most tourists will miss this area. However, you are on the same road as everyone that does make it there, so keep that in mind. Free roaming sheep and nameless waterfalls dot the landscape as you wind in and out of the great fjords. And Dynjandi, a waterfall worth naming, was the coolest cascade I saw all trip (pictured above). Also, make a reservation at Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður, the capital of the region. Dine at long nordic tables and enjoy the best fish of your life while soaking up its intoxicating provincial vibe. Another note, there are only a few restaurants in Ísafjörður. Plan ahead, or eat pizza at what looks like an American rest stop. In summer the sun barley sets this far north. Bring an eye mask. And just a heads up, there is a single lane tunnel, which, is a little jarring when you see the headlights coming at you. Most of all, watch out for the sheep!
Snaefellsnes Peninsula: Formed by volcanic activity the peninsula has got some very interesting topography. We were wiped from Hornstrandir, but if I went back, I'd definitely climb Snæfellsjökull (I actually can pronounce this one), a massive glacier that covering the volcano. This natural monument was the inspiration for Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth. A local also gave us a tip that there are some great hiking trails that lead up into the mountains that not many people take advantage of. Check em' out.
Reykjavik: A cool little city with a very interesting art scene, it can be seen in a day. Great to check out, but it certainly should not be the focus of your adventure.
The rest of Iceland: We only made it to the areas listed above, but it looks like there's amazing stuff all over. A lot of people do the "Ring Road" which seems interesting but from what we heard from locals, you should really rent a 4x4 and check out the interior. Iceland is very rugged and there is awesome stuff where most cars and people don't go. It actually quite funny. All around you'll see what look like urban assault vehicles, and although not as popular as say sheep, Iceland has an interesting tradition of rugged motoring. To appreciate this land for what is it you need to run and hide from the crowds. But be advised, these are expensive rentals, $200 a day!
Camping: Extremely camp friendly and there are sites all over the place. Renting campers is also very big. Maybe something to consider.
Everyone speaks English: So well that in some cases I actually thought they were Americans. That good. This is awesome because you have really great conversations, not just about the weather, where is the library, and how much you like this country. We really hit it off with all our Air BnB hosts. They gave us tips, chatted with us, and booked us at restaurants. I only have amazing things to say about the people of Iceland.
Air BnB: Yes! Do it! We had such great experiences with our hosts, and they were very, very helpful. Not to mention even hostels are twice the price of Air BnB accommodations. And don't even think about a hotel! Air BnB all the way!
Raw whale and three types of herring! Þrir Frakkar, Reykjavik
Food: I didn't try the fermented shark. Even our tour guide Ragnar, who used the word "delicacy" to describe a packet of dried fish, thought the shark was disgusting. So, it didn't feel like I was missing anything. We tried all the fish we could. They crush it; no surprise there, but they also have a really great dark, dense, sweet rye bread that pares excellent with all fish, smoked, souffléd, pickled, all go quite nicely with it. We did try raw whale. Yikes! I would suggest trying it if you can find it. I like raw meat, so this was for me the best way to try something new. A red meat, its like beef that comes from the sea. Its not that common so don't, worry they aren't killing off the whale population. The lamb was also excellent. There is a simple lamb soup that's excellent. Get a bowl. Lamb and fish are quite prevalent, so you won't have any issue finding them on menus. The more specialty stuff you will have to go out of your way, so plan for it. We didn't come across horse or puffin again, thus, I didn't get another chance at it. I highly recommend reservations; reservations for everything. Showing up doesn't work so well here. Maybe because it's high season in the summer, but everything is packed. It might take some spontaneity out of it, but that's better than eating gas station pizza, in Iceland, after you spent all that money to get there. And on a final note, things are expensive here, especially food. A cup of coffee is, no joke, $5. You just got to accept it and move on; you can't win em' all.
Hot Springs: I really tried to find hot springs along our driving route. They are far less common where we were, but make for an excellent stop. You should definitely try to scope a few out on your way. They are prevalent in the south, not so much in the west and Westfjords. And just so you know, they aren't really that intimate in the summer. We really only went to one natural spring that wasn't known, and that even had two other people in it. Still totally worth it. And these are small, it only takes one other car to potentially make it a crowd. We had a great time chatting with the folks we met, but then again, we were looking to socialize. If a romantic experience is what you seek, dial down your expectations.